​​Ethnic Textile Art

Tvistsom is a folk art technique that originated in Sweden during the 17th and 18th centuries.  It has had a long history throughout all the Scandinavian countries, with the best-known examples of Tvistsom coming from in the province of Skane, in the southern part of Sweden. 

 

This technique traditionally used wool fibers on a canvas with a “Tvist” weave (a loose tabby weave resembling Penelope canvas.)  Early in its history, popular designs included stylized flora and fauna as well as the eight-pointed star and the heart motif.  At this time, both the foreground and background of the canvas were completely covered.  Because of the durability of the stitching, this form of needlework was ideal for use with items such as sleigh rugs, carriage cushions, and household furnishings. 

 

Later, during the 18th and 19th centuries, the patterns were simplified, with variety added by the choice of colors used.   Often two different threads were used in the same needle, producing the “tweeding” that remains one of the major characteristics of this form of needlework.  Among the most common designs seen at this time were those with repeating geometric patterns.  The colors used were representative of those found throughout the Scandinavian cultures. 

 

During the 19th and 20th centuries, Tvistsom was again modified, this time to reflect the wider variety of available materials.  More recent examples of Tvistsom can be identified by the use of materials such as linen and evenweave grounds, stitched with linen threads.  At this same time the background was left unstitched and the designs became more decorative, reflecting a larger range of patterns available to the embroiderer.  

 

Today an even larger number of materials are available for use, ranging from 7 count Klostern (worked with wool) to 25-count evenweave (worked with linen.)  Many existing designs can be readily adapted for use with this technique, provided there are large blocks of color, no partial stitches, and few single stitches in the design.    

 

Working this technique is very straightforward, because only two stitches are used – the long-armed cross and the standard cross.  The work is normally done “in-hand” (that is without a hoop), to facilitate the frequent change in direction of the stitching.    A row of stitching is worked in one direction (left to right) and the return row is worked in the opposite direction (right to left), producing a braided effect by the change in direction.  Part of the texture in Tvistsom is created when adjacent areas of the design are worked in different directions: if the first section is worked horizontally, the area abutting it will be worked vertically.  In some cases, the areas are further emphasized by a series of single crosses, used as borders.

  

One of the most appealing features of Tvistsom is that it allows us to create needlework patterns from designs that are found in other fiber disciplines.  Inspiration for new designs can come from sources such as traditional and contemporary quilts, beadwork, American Indian rug-weaving and basket weaving, as well as the multitude of other patterns we see around us in our daily life.  This technique, which has been modified and adapted throughout its history, awaits the future.