​​Ethnic Textile Art

Schwalm (pronounced shvalm) is a form of whitework embroidery, named for a region along the Schwalm River in central Germany.  In Germany, it is called “Schwalmer Weisstrickerel”, which translates into “the white stitchery from the Schwalm.”

 

Examples of Schwalm from the late 17th century are embroidered entirely with surface stitches.   Later, during the 18th and 19th centuries, the enclosed areas were opened up and drawn thread fillings were added to the design shapes, producing the work we recognize as Schwalm today. Schwalm closely resembles other traditional needlework, such as Old Hedebo, Dresden Work and Hardanger.    

 

In earlier times, the designs were used on the sleeves, cuffs and aprons of regional German costumes, as well as on pillowcases and table linens. The designs used would be symmetrically placed, and extend to the very edge of the object.  These projects often used specific themes, such as flowers and hearts cascading from an urn or basket; or a tree of life with flowers, hearts, leaves and tendrils. The design shapes used resemble those found in Pennsylvania German Franktur designs, including the heart, dove and tulip. 

 

When used on household items, the projects were often completed with a hemstitched edge, with multiple rows of ornamental hemstitched borders placed just inside the hem.  Many of the articles shown in earlier texts include a complete section devoted to this additional border ornamentation.  

 

Early forms of Schwalm are difficult to find, because the stitching was done on functional items that which were discarded after they became worn and used.  Early texts (in German) showed objects covered edge-to-edge with this needlework.  This approach illustrates the “fear of a void” – the theory that the devil will attempt to enter an object at the weakest point.

 

Traditionally, Schwalm was done in white linen thread on white linen fabric.  It features a combination of chain stitches and coral knots, drawn and counted thread techniques.  If the look of a traditional Schwalm project is desired, fine count linen should be used (in the range of 35-40 threads per inch) and multiple weights of soft cotton thread (such as coton broder.)  Contemporary designs use a wider range of fabrics and fibers to create an updated look that is pleasing to many modern needleworkers.  Color should be used with care, so that it does not detract from the complexity of the design.

 

One of the most appealing features of Schwalm is that very personal designs can be readily created.  The designs can be readily changed by the selection of different fibers or by changing the filling stitch used in a specific area.  It is this subtlety of the embroiderer’s choices that leads to unique and very personalized works of art.