​​Ethnic Textile Art

One of Sweden’s most recognized provinces is Dalarna, long famous for the decorative red and blue Dala horses.  Another, less well-known folk art also comes from this area – the needlework technique called Sollerosom (or Soleron.)  This unique form of stitching is found on the textiles of Lake Siljan, a lake located in central Sweden that was created as a result of a meteorite impact. Solleron Island, which is located on this lake, has given its name to the unique technique created there.

 

During the 1600's and 1700's, Sollerosom was seen on aprons that were an integral part of the folk costume from this region.  The aprons were decorated with a variety of colors to be used for special occasions as well as different days of the week.  Many local customs were dictated largely by the church and specified what colors could be used, by whom, where and when.  Everyone attended church in the local costume, which varied according to the church season, the church ceremony, and the time of year.  For example, blue was to be worn on Sunday, red for formal occasions, and violet (blue and red worked together) during the Lenten season.   Unmarried women were prohibited from wearing any decoration, thus embroidery seen on a woman's garment indicated that she was married.        

 

By the 1800's many parts of the folk costume were purchased, rather than being produced in the home.  This led to a decline in the quality and quantity of needlework produced, as well as a decline in the number of people wearing folk costumes.  The technique was rediscovered during the 1940's and for a brief period, was taught in homes and classrooms.  In 1976 Lili-Anna Balker wrote a book "Sollerosom och Dalsom" that provided a historical background and working instructions for the technique.  During its renaissance, the technique was used for a wider variety of projects, including personal items and household textiles.  

 

During Sweden's history, one of the interesting ways for Swedish textiles to be seen was their use as wall coverings and ceiling dress during the Christmas season, and other festive occasions.  The presence and quantity of these embroideries would serve as an indicator of the relative wealth and prestige of the home.  The textiles would be placed in the narrow area between the rafters, where they hung from the ridgepole to the wall.  At that point, additional hangings would cover the wall to the point where the fringed ends would just touch the benches along the wall. 

 

Although many of these textiles were woven, it is likely that Sollerosom could also have been found among these hangings for a number of reasons.   First, the technique would have made use of the coarser cloth produced from poorer quality flax (which wouldn't be noticeable from a great distance.)  Secondly, the design would mimic the coverage of the densely woven textiles, while at the same time saving precious thread on reverse.  In addition, because the net of stitches can cover a large distance quickly, not a great amount of time was spent in producing the design.  Finally, because the technique is stitched from the face only, the textile could have been worked as it was hanging in place. 

 

This technique is one that is relatively simple to master and works up quickly, with an economical use of thread.   In all of these characteristics, it reflects the common thread of many of the folk-arts - the desire to create beauty in the simple things of life.